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Shepherd’s pie by Jane Grigson
If you season the dish well, if you mash the potatoes especially for it, shepherd’s pie can be well worth eating
“1885. Pall Mall Gazette. The Eastbourne board of Guardians have ordered a mincing machine… for the use of aged and toothless paupers in their workhouse.” Originally mincing meant chopping something with a knife. With meat, it helped to make the less noble parts edible without prolonged cooking. Fair enough. But with the first mincing machines, prison, school and seaside boarding house cooks acquired a new weapon to depress their victims, with watery mince, shepherd’s pie with rubbery granules of leftover meat, rissoles capable of being fired from a gun.
If you use fresh meat, trim it free of fat and mince it or chop it yourself at home, if you season the dish well, if you cook and mash the potatoes especially for it, shepherd’s pie – or cottage pie, as it’s sometimes called – can be well worth eating. Anyone can cook a steak. It takes a modest and generous skill to turn cheaper cuts of meat into something good.