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https://i.imgur.com/3hXkhGI_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium https://i.imgur.com/DUzIZq9_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium

just a simple hammer with exchangeable soft ends (beechwood and aluminium) took about 2.5 hours +cleaning

the hande is made from cheep’n’simple beechwood if bought at my local store, the head is normal steel (dunno anything else about it, someone gave it to me) wich i coldblued using the balistol coldblue set for weapons.

i attached the handle using M10 (bout 3/8″) threaded steel wich was countered from the top using an M5 (~3/16″) torx screw. This is one of my favorite tricks, since the difference in thread angle make it very hard for the threads to go loose. the thread goes about 70mm (~2 3/4″) into the wood

if you never heard of bluing before, bluing a part creates a thin layer of Fe2O3 (iron2-3oxide) wich has a nice silver-dark color. Upon contact with oil the color changes to a nice black. It only works with steel, zink and brass. stainless and other metals wont work

blued aurfaces are stainless, durble and look quite neat with brass, wood and polished stainless coldbluing uses selenium acid wich turns the steel black almost immediatly. theres also something called precision bluing, where you heat your part to just the right temperature. The Fe203 creates a transparent layer wich traps light inside depending on it’s wavelength. From 300-310°C (572-590°F) the layer allowes only blue light to escape, creating an amazing color. visit clicksprings youtube channel if you want to see this

the photos were made using a potato and some 1000 grid sandpaper, because frankly thats what i have lay’n around

ps. i have many more projects i’d like to share, so tell me what you think ^{^}