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Italian wines that are made for a meal | Fiona Beckett

Some Italian wines might not knock your socks off when drunk alone but they come into their own with food

One of the highlights of my year is the annual Italian feast at Wild Artichokes in Kingsbridge, Devon, which is cooked by the wonderful chef and food writer Jane Baxter, who makes an occasional appearance on these pages, and on BBC1’s Saturday Kitchen, come to that.

Baxter, whose motto should be “never knowingly undercatered”, is incapable of making a meal with fewer than a dozen courses, and this year was no different, including six antipasti and three pastas, which makes a nonsense of trying to match individual dishes. The trick is to find a wine that will rub along with pretty well everything you throw at it, and I found it in an Etna bianco from Sicilian producer Tasca d’Almerita.

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