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Asma Khan’s secret ingredient: nutmeg
The chef and restaurateur on the spice that always reminds her of Indian family weddings
Nutmeg is not something we historically had in India, it came with the spice trade. It’s a warming, winter spice. Winter is India’s family wedding season. It’s no longer hot, and you can cook without things curdling and going off. Like kheer [a rice pudding] for 2,000 people or carrot halwa; milk is reduced for hours and hours, then we put in carrots and grate nutmeg on it with sugar.
I always associate nutmeg with the excitement of the wedding: meeting the cousins, dressing up, henna-ing your hands, and slightly unpleasant aunts who make terrible comments about you. Memories of this spice are very strong for me, emotionally.