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Nigel Slater’s recipes for asparagus, and for clam and leek chowder
Clever cooking makes clams and asparagus go a lot further
The clams clatter into the sink. I have taken to steaming the tiny netsuke-coloured shellfish in their own juices with nothing more than an egg cup of fino sherry and a couple of twists of the peppermill. I tear off a piece of bread – more holes than crumb – and wipe the briny juices from my plate. The larger clams, their shells grey and amber and plump like a dumpling, get steamed, too – but this time the nuggets of seafood are tugged from their shells, and tossed with coils of linguine, olive oil and chilli flakes the colour of dried blood.
I have taken to steaming clams in their own juices with nothing more than an egg cup of fino sherry and a little pepper