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Nigel Slater’s recipes for mussels, and for figs with tapenade

Courgettes and sumptuous seafood, and an olive paste you can eat anytime at all

Much of the cooking in this kitchen is about dinner, or lunch perhaps, but it can also be about small delights, too – good things to eat before the main meal of the day or just for the fun of it.

On the table this week was a fragrant paste of green olives and preserved artichokes that we spread on slices cut from a herb loaf, and another of minted ricotta for eating with fruit. The latter was simple – the white, fresh cheese stirred through with chopped mint and parsley leaves and – for crunch – finely chopped, ice-crisp radishes. Something to pile into the open mouths of ripe, casually torn figs or a crisp new season’s pear.

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