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The Loch & The Tyne, Old Windsor, Berkshire: ‘Odd, but unforgettable’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

‘This, surely, is the point of lovely lunches: they make you want to abandon reality and set up home’

One of the hard-and-fast rules about dining out, alongside never trying to eat the hot towel or order the wine called “Corkage” because it seems the most reasonably priced, is never to get the chef talking about sustainability. Never. For many, you see, it’s their obsession, and at The Loch & The Tyne in Old Windsor, before you know it, you could be perusing the eco-garden and composting area on a Vélosophy bike made out of recycled Nespresso pods. That said, The Loch & The Tyne is an Adam Handling venture, run by his trusted, longstanding cohorts Steven Kerr and Jonathan McNeil, so if you were to break that rule, this is the place to do it.

Handling’s approach to food waste has always been delicious, luxurious and playful … we’re a long way from worthy.

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