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The Barn at Moor Hall, Aughton, Lancashire: ‘Delicious eccentricity’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

‘I’d been here for all of five minutes before I was already planning a return’

It’s Wednesday lunchtime at The Barn in Aughton, a classy, “relaxed”, fine-dining restaurant, and each and every table is filled with chipper, liberated, double-jabbed sixty-somethings. They are eating plates of brown butter-poached Cornish turbot with terrines of plump, glazed jersey royals on the side. They’re ordering guinea fowl with celeriac puree and caramelised apple mille-feuille. Each group appears to be catching up with gossip that’s been stacking up for at least 15 months. It’s a spiriting sight.

The ladies and gents who seriously lunch are out of the house again. They’re choosing fancy wines and one-upping each other with tales about their grandchildren’s reading prowess or their new garden sprinkler system. Nature is definitely healing, and living well, as those taking advantage of The Barn’s lunchtime set-menu deal are so clearly doing, seems all the more precious right now.

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