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Fergus and Margot Henderson: ‘A half pig’s head – it’s romance on a plate’

For Observer Food Monthly’s 20th anniversary, the first couple of British food recall favourite meals and being ‘mother hens’ to a generation of cooks

Around the time Boris Johnson had coronavirus, Fergus and Margot Henderson caught it too. And like the prime minister, Fergus, the 57-year-old founder of St John in east London, who has managed Parkinson’s disease for more than 20 years, ended up in St Thomas’s hospital. “All the journalists were outside,” remembers Margot, 56, the co-patron and chef of the Rochelle Canteen in Shoreditch. “I tried to get food into Fergus, because I knew he wouldn’t be eating anything. But Fergus didn’t quite know where he was. He thought he was in Venice actually.” Fergus gazes off dreamily: “A rather nice thought to have.”

The Hendersons, who have been married since 1992, would have to be called the power couple of the London dining scene, if only they weren’t so modest and unpowery. Perhaps describing them as the godparents of modern British cooking would be more apt: besides their own restaurants, they have inspired and mentored a new generation of chefs, including James Lowe, Lee Tiernan, Anna Tobias and Ravneet Gill. They were both appointed OBEs this year “for services to the culinary arts”.

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