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What I learned in my year as a restaurant critic stuck at home

Won’t somebody think of the poor restaurant critics? Won’t anyone consider the plight of these hard-working, committed professionals, robbed this past year of their vital place in society? Week after week pre-pandemic, we pulled up to a thickly clothed table, ordered potentially nice things to eat at somebody else’s expense, and then returned to our desks to write sharply honed accounts of the great risks we had taken, carefully larded and barded with the most elegant of knob gags. Can’t at least a few of you take to your doorsteps to bang a pan? No? Oh.

I’ll level with you. Throughout the pandemic, I’ve attempted to check my privilege, really I have

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