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Italian red wines to match with food | Fiona Beckett on wine

Italian wines often seem designed to drink with food, with their higher acidity and tannins. We browse some of the best bins

Before I get sucked into the giddy annual maelstrom of Christmas drinks, I want to talk a bit about Italian red wine, not least because Italy is the country I’ve missed the most during lockdown. Stupidly, I didn’t take advantage when they were in our travel corridor this autumn, turning down a trip to Bolzano to taste obscure grape varieties on the somewhat feeble basis that I could be stranded there knowing no one and not speaking Italian.

I love their wines that so effortlessly segue into food. In fact, they generally need food to taste at their best, often having a sharp acidity and tannic structure that needs the edges knocked off by a comforting slow braise or ragù.

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