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The Clarence Tavern, London N16: ‘It feels ever so slightly like old times’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants
We lingered over rhubarb bellinis, many extra plates of chips and the light slander of mutual enemies
When The Clarence Tavern opened in early March – fresh lick of paint, restaurateurs of fine repute, interesting menu – it lasted four whole days before Boris Johnson told everyone to stop going to pubs. So they shut again.
When some creative mind eventually pens Britain 2020: The Musical for the Edinburgh Fringe, it should focus around The Clarence as the perfect parable of Britain’s ongoing fightback. The Clarence in Stoke Newington, north London, was once Steptoe’s in the 1980s, where, if I crimped my fringe and wore lipstick, they’d serve me halves of lager. Since then, it’s been The Daniel Defoe, The Clarence (again) and the Stoke Newington Tea House (though still, confusingly, serving beer), before reverting to its original name, registered in 1860. This feels apt: the pub had survived equally as frightening things as Covid-19 and managed to stay upright and serve ale. And, yes, now it’s serving potted shrimp with gooseberries, and farinata with sweet and sour aubergine, too, because times must also change.