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Smothered in batter and deep-fried, tofu makes a surprisingly good alternative to white fish for a vegan chippie experience at home
I’m no tofu expert – in fact, I’d go so far as to describe myself as a reformed sceptic – but there are two things I do know about it: first, its creamy blandness is a great foil for other flavours (see mapo tofu); and second, it is transformed, Cinderella-style, by frying, with its soft wobbliness irresistible against the crunch of batter. Both these qualities make it an ideal plant-based substitute for white fish in the classic chippie supper, offering a similar delicacy of flavour and satisfying contrast of textures without the distracting saltiness of halloumi or the chew of banana flowers, which are sometimes used as fish-free alternatives instead.
After posting pictures of my various attempts online, I was astonished by the vehemence of the response, to which I say, no one’s forcing you to try it, but you shouldn’t knock it until you have – after all, although tofu isn’t without its environmental concerns, few would deny that we need to be more mindful of the fish we eat and, almost as importantly, this is bloody delicious.