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20 years of Observer Food Monthly: Nigel Slater’s five star ingredients
Two decades ago, beetroot was more likely to be found in a pickle jar and cauliflower under a mornay sauce. Here are five foods that had a ‘moment’ in the past twenty years
What and how we eat has steadily changed over the 20 years since OFM first came on the scene. New ingredients have appeared, old ones given a new role, some have stayed while others have faded into obscurity. We may well roll our eyes at food fashions, but it remains a fact that sometimes an ingredient will slowly shift, albeit briefly, into the limelight.
Part of this change has included a reappraisal of the fruit and vegetables we eat and their place in our everyday cooking. Encouraged by farmers’ markets and seed merchants, some older varieties that had slipped out of popularity have returned, particularly for those with allotments and vegetable gardens.